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Tour or Not to Tour

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March, 2025


Let’s go to Costa Rica! Not long after my husband crossed over, I was invited to go with friends on a Gate One tour to Costa Rica and Panama.  Since we had been to Costa Rica years before and loved it, I quickly accepted even though it cost far more than I expected.

What I didn’t know then, but will warn you about now, is that these tours are designed for couples.  There is an extra charge (several hundred dollars) for solo travelers, the buses are two seats on either side, the tables in the restaurants are either 4-top or 6-top which leaves an empty chair reminding of your loss. So the prospect of spending time with my friends and helping each other grieve for our missing fourth, I was often alone while they sat together on the bus, or showed up to dinner after I had already chosen a table that filled with others.

Gate One offers a variety of tours, and this one was a “Discovery” tour.  Reading the description carefully, you will see that it is “moderately” strenuous, and that you should be in pretty good shape to enjoy this tour.  Well, as you may have guessed by now, we didn’t read the description carefully and the tour ended up being endured rather than enjoyed.  One day involved several hours on a bumpy road in the bus, then an hour-long hike into the forest, then an hour- long hike back out. I had to turn around and go back to the air-conditioned bus after about 20 minutes.  At 83, in the heat and humidity, I was afraid I was going to suffer heat stroke. So, read carefully before committing.

Gate One chooses their hotels with an eye toward folks who can afford the tour, and all of our accommodations were clean, comfortable, with excellent service, and good food. On one day that was planned to include lots of water activities (open boat in the sun) I opted to stay at the hotel.  I had a sleep-in (most other days were breakfast at 7 am), a leisurely breakfast, with a pot of delicious Costa Rican coffee, a swim in the pool, and a nap!

While most of our group of about 20 had not been to CR before, the three of us had stayed in a resort at the foot of the volcano, we had seen sloths in the rain forest, had fed bananas to coatimundi, and had been jolted awake by howler monkeys. I hate to say we were jaded, but we had “been there, done that.” 

I had not been to Panama and was keen to learn more about it. What I learned was that having lots of money is better than not. Panama’s infrastructure, including its roads, is 10 times better than in its neighbor.  I’m not sure I heard this right, but we were told that Panama collects $100,000  from each ship that uses the Panama canal. We were able to learn a lot about the canal and could see the evidence of the wealth it brought the country everywhere.  I wish we had been able to spend two days in Panama City, a modern city with architecture, art, science, and water.  

My advice is to rent a car in Costa Rica and book your own accommodations.  See what most interests you, and then arrange a few days in Panama.  If you’re not comfortable being your own travel agent, at least talk to a real person on the phone about the itinerary of any tour you are considering.

On the upside, I met a woman with whom I have a lot in common, and I would never have known her without this tour, so there’s that. 

Placencia

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BELIZE

Published March 12, 2014

Our next destination after Tikal was Placencia, Belize. We had not made arrangements for transportation, which we regretted.  There was a woman at the Tikal Inn who told us, absolutely, that there was no way to get back to the border except by shuttle which would cost us $30 each person (or $120 US).  But Bill and Ron talked to a guy who had a van parked in the parking lot who agreed to take us from there to the border for $75 total instead of $120 total.

Once we arrived at the border and made it through immigration, we had to find someone to take us to Placencia.  Bill made the tactical mistake of talking to a guy on the Guatemalan side who agreed to drive us all from there to Placencia for $80 US.  Thinking that was too good to pass up, Bill gave him the money and said we would meet him on the other side, the Belize side.  Well, of course, the guy disappeared and we never saw him again. The Guatemalans will tell you whatever you want to hear to make a buck. Tip: you are better off renting a car and providing your own transportation. If it costs you a few more dollars, it’s worth it to avoid the rip-offs, the frustration, and the unexpected expenses.

So another taxi driver on the Belize side promised to take us all the way for $150 US.  Jesus H . Christ!  So tired of getting ripped off by taxi drivers!  Now, today, we found out that we could have paid a taxi to take us just to San Ignacio, which was only 10 miles away, then we could have taken a bus to Placencia for about $20 US per person.  Ok, enough complaining.  My advice: stay out of Guatemala.

We arrived in Placencia and checked into Cozy Corner.  Nice rooms with a/c and TV for $70 per night.  And downstairs in the restaurant there is WiFi, where I was even able to download Wake Me Up by Avicii.  At this moment we four are sitting in our swim suits on the beach with our afternoon cocktails, with a cool breeze blowing and the gentle waves trying to put us to sleep.

We will be here til Saturday morning, then it’s off to Crooked Tree.

The Flying Pig

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BELIZE

Published March 11, 2014

Arrival in Placencia

WARNING:  Stay on the road!  This is our taxi after missing the turn to Cozy Corner and thinking he could take a shortcut.  Fortunately, there were 3 Belizeans who hang out near this spot waiting for idiots to get stuck and then charge about $20 to get you out.

But Placencia is a little bit of paradise.  There are no, and I mean NO, signs of the modern world here except for cell phones, signs saying Visa/MasterCard accepted, and a weak, sporadic WiFi signal.  But not a Macdonald’s to be seen, nor a Hilton, Radisson, or Westin.  The homes are small and simple, the restaurants are open to the sea breezes, and all the natives either sell food or crafts or boat tours.

At home we seldom just sit and relax, but here the chairs on the beach under the little thatched umbrellas are so conducive to reading, conversation, or just closing your eyes and letting your mind go blank, that you can’t help relaxing.  Younger and more fit visitors can go fishing, diving or snorkeling when the weather permits.  I would have done another snorkeling day, but yesterday there was a pretty stiff wind which brought rain last night and this morning.  No good for snorkeling.  But my experience in Caye Caulker has made me promise myself that I will go to Mexico for snorkeling (or someplace like that).

Last night we went to dinner at The Flying Pig, a restaurant owned by the cousin of a friend I went to high school with.  It was “all you can eat” spaghetti night.  Patrick was a charming, enthusiastic host and told us how he came to be in Placencia. He was teaching school in California until the recession and at that time his school combined with another school and rather than teaching algebra to 7th, 8th, and 9th grade kids, he was expected to teach 7-12th graders.  Unfortunately his certificate only allowed him to teach up to 9th grade.  So, he went back to school and got a Master’s degree in administration.  Now, he found his lack of experience made it impossible to find a job in school administration.  So, he gave California a one-finger salute, sold everything and moved to Belize.  He’s happy and making a contribution to the community. 

We have one more night here, and then tomorrow we are off to Crooked Tree, supposedly a bird-watcher’s dream come true.  Two nights there, then back to Belize City for the last night before we fly home.

Finding Our Sloth

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Published November 4, 2005

You can’t go to Costa Rica without going to Manuel Antonio National Park, so we left the rainy mountain and headed for the beach. The single most interesting sight before we reached the coast was this bar we came across just sitting by the side of the road, nothing else in view.  It was time to stop for a beer anyway, so we decided to take a chance and go in.  We walked through the doorway and were astonished.  The entire floor was covered in a mosaic that was obviously done by hand.  It appeared that the entire place was the work of an incredibly talented craftsman.  Even better, the bartender had a video of Alan Jackson playing, so we felt like we were in Texas instead of the jungle.  There was a beautiful deck built in the rear, and it was only feet away from a rushing rapid of a river, running full because of all the rain from the hurricane.  You learn that surprises wait for you to be adventurous. 

After our thoroughly relaxing couple of hours at the bar we drove on.  Our next surprise was when we reached the Tarcoles River.  For some reason, this is a hangout for crocodiles.  There are usually 10 to 20 gargantuan crocs visible from the bridge.  Look at these rascals!

We took Frommer’s advice and stayed at Hotel Verde Mar at Quepos.  This turned out to be an excellent choice.  Their brochure says this delightful hotel is “nestled in the jungle only a few hundred yards from the jewel of the national park system. World famous Manuel Antonio National Park.”  It’s just a short walk to the beach via a raised wooden walkway.  We found a great little restaurant just up the beach from the hotel.  An altogether pleasant place to stay. 

The Park itself was amazing.  My first realization was that rain forest meant you camera lens was going to get wet!  I just never took the name literally, silly me!  The sounds of monkeys was everywhere and we became so used to them that we didn’t feel it was even necessary to look up anymore as they romped through the trees.  And, finally, we saw the three-toed sloth.  It was very high up in the tree, and my camera didn’t get a very good shot, so it looks more like someone just threw an old fur coat up in the branches.

The week we spent in Costa Rica was too short.  There was so much more to see.  We have since learned that the airfare is the most expensive cost in travel, so if you’re going to pay that, you might as well spend the few extra dollars it will cost to stay two or three weeks, or a month. 

What I learned: Travel More! Stay Longer!

Horrible Roads

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Published November 2, 2005

The Monteverde Cloud Forest was next on our list, so, we packed up the SUV and headed for Santa Elena.  Here is what Frommer’s says about driving to Monteverde.  “Whichever route you take, the final going is slow because the roads into Santa Elena are rough, unpaved dirt and gravel affairs.” Make no mistake, driving these roads is daunting, and there were times when it seemed impossible that we would make it to our destination.  

The Monteverde Biological Cloud Forest Reserve is one of the most developed and maintained attractions in Costa Rica, so you would think there would be a decent way to get there.  The back seat of the Kia SUV was not especially comfortable and the potholes in the road meant we were bouncing up and down, swaying side to side, and hanging on to the straps to keep from hitting our heads on the roof.
Thanks to my husband’s driving skills, we made it to our lodgings in Santa Elena.  Exhausted, we had dinner in the restaurant and crashed.  

Our zip-line tour was scheduled for the next morning, but the weather report was unsettling.  It was the tail end of hurricane season, and the news channel reported that a hurricane was blowing across Nicaragua, the country to the north of us.  During the night, the rain swept in.  When we went to breakfast early the next morning, there was a group of German tourists talking with their guide who was telling them that he advised postponing their zip-line tour.  We immediately found the hotel manager and asked her to contact the tour guide who was supposed to meet us there and ask him to please cancel our tour and issue us a refund.  We would not be able to reschedule because we were due in Quepas the next evening.

Another lesson learned: the tour guide couldn’t issue a refund because we had paid the travel agent.  When we called the travel agent, he said he couldn’t issue a refund because we had cancelled, not the tour guide.  Arguing was futile.  Now I am aware of TripAdvisor and I would, at the very least, have threatened to write a scathing review of the travel agency.

Even in the rain we were able to ride the gondola up into the Forest and learn a great deal about the 2500 species of plants, including 400 types of orchids, 400 species of birds, and 100 different species of mammals.  Our tour guide was an extremely pleasant and informed young man, who confessed that he had never been outside of Costa Rica.

Things I Learned: Do not assume that the standards for highways and roads are the same in other countries as the ones in the U.S.  We have never encountered roads and bridges as horrible as those in Costa Rica.  On one occasion, we saw something in the middle of the road ahead, but we could not identify it.  It didn’t move, so it wasn’t an animal.  But it was bigger than a cardboard box.  As we approached, we all peered through the windshield to try to figure it out.  Finally, aha, it was a 50-gallon drum stuck in a huge pothole so that cars did not fall in it!

Rookie Mistakes

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Published October 30, 2005

This was our first trip together, and our first experience in Central America, so we made all the rookie mistakes.  They ended up costing us, but we learned what not to do. 

The first mistake was ever setting foot inside the travel agent located a few steps from the hotel.  Since our friend from Virginia spoke fluent Spanish, he talked with the agent who assured us he could make all the arrangements for a perfect vacation in his country.  First we needed to rent a car.  That part seemed simple enough, except that I gave the agent my debit card just to secure the car, and then we would pay the final cost with our credit card because our friends would be splitting the cost with us and we could settle up when we returned to San Jose. 

The agent made reservations for us at Arenal and at The Monteverde Cloud Forest.  He also talked us into signing up for a zip line adventure at Monteverde at a cost of $60 per person.  We would never do that now – sign up with an agent miles away from the actual event.  But after what seemed like hours and hours, we were finally done and ready to explore Costa Rica.  Then, suddenly, I was told that there would be a $1000 hold on our bank account until we returned the car.  That would mean we wouldn’t have access to most of the money we planned to use on the trip!  So, another half hour was spent crediting back the debit card and using a credit card for the security.  Too confusing! 

Driving through the countryside was a delight.  We stopped to feed coatamundi bananas by hand, took photos with coffee plantations in the background, gasped occasionally at the narrow, pot-holed roads, and stopped for lunch where “cow meat sandwich” was on the menu.  This “cow meat” sandwich, aka hamburger, was 800 colones, or $1.60.  French fries were 450 colones, or less than $1.00.  I found the best, most economical meal was the standard local fare, called “Tico” food; generally rice, beans, fruit, maybe a bit of chicken.  Always good, and always less than $3.00.

We arrived at our destination, Los Lagos, in La Fortuna.  We had comfortable cabins next to each other right at the foot of the volcano.  We were astonished at the size of the pool that was heated by the volcano.  Best pool I have ever been in.  We didn’t want to get out.  But food and drink were calling.  I was in my nightie, ready to fall asleep after the hot soak in the pool and all of a sudden we heard a boom!  Thunder?  Guns?  What?  Oh, for heavens sake, it was Arenal, the volcano, showing off for us.  I have to say, it was scary.  I don’t think I could get used to it.  But I was so tired, I fell asleep anyway.

What I learned: Don’t go to a travel agent in a country you don’t know.  If you have an agent at home that you have used and trust, then that’s fine, but don’t put yourself at the mercy of a fast-talking hustler.  Take one credit card that you don’t intend to use in case you have to give them a card to rent the car.  Now, after years of travel, we know that we can find great accommodations and negotiate a good price, often lower than a travel agent could get.

Arriving in San Jose

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Published 10/29/2005

When we had arrived in San Jose, Costa Rica, made it through immigration, and had our luggage, the first thing that happened was that my husband took off like a shot out the door to light up.  Left me just outside the doors with the luggage and about two dozen taxi drivers swarming over me rattling Spanish at me.  I just kept screaming, “No, no, no!” “Mi spousa!” Of course, I don’t know if that’s even Spanish, maybe it’s Italian or totally made up. I thought I was going to be kidnapped and never see home again!

Then my husband returned, we got a taxi, and headed off to the Gran Hotel Costa Rica where we would meet our friends.  I think about that now and how much simpler life is with cell phones!  Our taxi driver was very nice and spoke passably good English, so he was able to point out various sights and buildings on the way, and he delivered us safe and sound to the hotel.

Immediately we made our way to the outdoor patio to have a drink and something to eat.  Our friends spied someone they had met the day before.  He was stranded at the hotel because he had made the mistake of going to the market in the center of town and had his pocket picked.  Lost his wallet, and his passport.  Unfortunately it was Saturday night, the next day the Embassy was closed, so he couldn’t do anything until Monday.  By that time, we were gone.

Things I learned:  Don’t get separated from your group, or your spouse.  Pay attention to the warnings about protecting your valuables in crowds.  Make sure you have copies of your passport, your credit cards, and the phone numbers to call if your cards are stolen. And now, I make sure we have at least two different cards and two different bank accounts with debit cards.  If one set is stolen, we aren’t stranded and unable to get money.  Another good idea if you are going to be traveling for a month or longer, is to have a trusted family member added to your bank account so that they can straighten out any problem that arises.

Searching for a Sloth

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Published 10/29/2005

You can be bitten by the travel bug in ways you never expected.  In my case, it was a conversation I had with my friend in Virginia.  She told me that her grand-daughter had spent three weeks in Costa Rica doing some environmental work with her university.  Dani told her grandmother about the beauty of Costa Rica, how marvelous the people are, how natural and healthy and inexpensive the food is, not to mention the coffee, and how little money it takes to visit there.  My friend sort of casually said, “We should go.”

That’s all it took.  Before you could snap your fingers, we had set a date, and were looking for flights.  Because both our husbands had birthdays in October, we decided we could more easily convince them to go if we said it was a birthday trip.  I don’t remember now what sites I checked, but I am sure we bought the cheapest tickets we could find.  Although the best travel site on the web, Kayak, started doing business in 2004, I doubt that I knew about them when we were planning our Costa Rica trip. 

I can’t recall the details of planning the trip, but I do remember that both pairs of travelers bought travel books and began reading about where we wanted to go and what were our “must see” destinations.  I have read many different guide books, mainly from the library, but my favorite is Frommer’s.  From our separate research we agreed that we wanted to visit the Monteverde Cloud Forest, the Arenal National Park, and Manuel Antonio national Park.  The Virginians wanted to see as many species of birds and reptiles as possible and, top of the list was seeing a three-toed sloth in the wild.  I was both excited and afraid to sleep in the shadow of an active volcano.

So, on October 29, 2005 we set off on our first trip to Central America.