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Scent of Hyacinths

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Published Apr 21, 2007

Leaving Haarlem we continued south along the coast passing Den Haag (The Hague) where the international court holds its sessions.  If I could do this trip again, I would allow time to learn more about the International Court of Justice located in the Peace Palace.


As we drove, we passed fields of tulips – acres upon acres of them.  We stopped on the side of the road just to hop out and take some photos.  We were near the Keukenhof, one of the world’s largest and most beautiful flower gardens, but it was already after noon and we had to find a place for the night, so we regrettably made the decision not to explore Keukenhof – a mistake I would remedy the next time.  The beauty of fields of tulips cannot be described – at least not by me – and the fragrance of the hyacinths was overwhelming. 


I’ve mentioned that we didn’t make reservations at name hotels during this trip, and for the most part that was a good decision since we were able to take our time when we wanted, we weren’t on a set schedule, and we found welcoming people wherever we were.  However, this particular afternoon we expected that we could find a bed and breakfast spot in Delft since it is a rather large city, has a university, and is the home of the beautiful Delft blue pottery.  We drove into the center of town, parked and walked around a bit.  We bought some Delft souvenirs but had no luck spotting hotels.  The guidebooks were no help. We drove up and down the narrow streets along the canals and quickly decided that Delft just didn’t want us there.

  
What we really wanted was an out-of-the-way place not too far off the main highway.  Verda closed her eyes and put her finger on the map – a little spot called Neumansdorp, just south of Rotterdam, and just north of the Hollands Diep waterway.  We drove into town and sure enough, just on the right was the “Hotel Eetcafe ’t Wissel.” 

Could you possibly ask for anything more authentic?  We went in and asked if they had two rooms available and yes, indeed, they had a suite with two bedrooms, a kitchen and a bath.  The price was only 50 Euro per couple and the accommodations were so very nice and comfortable.  Our rooms looked out over a canal complete with ducks and green fields.  We went downstairs to the restaurant and had one of the best meals I’ve ever had.  We decided to trust Verda’s finger on the map from here on!    

Thoughts on Europe

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Published Apr 7, 2007

We have just returned from a wonderful trip to Europe with our friends from Alexandria, Virginia. We flew to Amsterdam, spent two days there, then rented a car and drove along the coast, visiting the beaches at Normandy, south to Tours, through the Loire Valley and on to Paris. Spent three days in Paris and then drove straight back on the freeways to Amsterdam for our flight home. We traveled slowly and took the back roads (not worrying about getting lost because of our GPS which Bill thoughtfully provided), stayed in little out-of-the-way hotels and gave ourselves time to ponder on the differences between the European way of being and our own.

It took us a little while to get used to the idea that the Euro was worth more than the dollar. I can’t remember going anywhere that the dollar was less than that country’s currency. Now, here we were in a place where the Euro was worth about $1.35

Not only that, but we were shocked when a cup of coffee was about $3.00 and it was a small, almost espresso-sized cup! Breakfast in our hotel was about $17.00 each. The good thing about those breakfasts was that there was plenty of bread (baguettes) and lots of lunch meats and sliced cheeses, so we could make a sandwich for lunch and sneak it out of the dining room so that with some fruit and a pastry, we had lunch almost free.

As we traveled, it became clear to us that if you wanted to sit at a table and have someone wait on you, you paid for it. If you wanted to go into a grocery, or bakery, or deli, you could purchase food and drink much, much cheaper. But you had to eat in the car, in the hotel room, or picnic. As we thought about it, this made a lot of sense. The high prices were charged in order to pay the staff a living wage (you do not tip in Europe) so being a waitress or waiter or cleaning person was not a job for unskilled, uneducated workers, but rather a job you could be proud of.

It’s a fair system, too, since customers pay for what they use. Real estate on the Champs Elysee is very expensive, so if you want to have a snack at one of those charming outdoor cafes, you’ll pay $30.00 US for a cheeseburger. If you don’t want to pay those rates, then wait and eat closer to your hotel.

We were struck by how neat and clean everything was. The streets, the subways, the sidewalks, the parks, the stores, the rooms, everything. We saw lots of workers sweeping the streets, cleaning the chairs in the subway, wiping down the public water fountains, doing anything that was needed to present an environment that was pleasant, colorful, full of art, and welcoming to people. Everyone seemed to respect their neighborhood, their home, their country.

The public transportation was to die for. Inexpensive, efficient, easy to understand. Americans would hate living in such small spaces as the Europeans do, with no yards, barely even a sidewalk or balcony to put a flower pot on. But, the upside is that neighbors and friends gather at the outdoor cafes and linger over a beer or coffee rather than inside their homes. The parks are filled with families picnicking or going to the art museums or just soaking up the sun. Everyone is surrounded by great art (with no graffitti!) which must give them an appreciation of beauty in the world.

One more thing and then I’ll quit. In Amsterdam everyone rode a bicycle. There are bike lanes everywhere and if you insist on walking in a bike lane, prepare to be scared witless! They will run you over (almost). But, obesity is not a problem there, in spite of the fabulous food. We could take a lesson, huh?

Finding Our Sloth

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Published November 4, 2005

You can’t go to Costa Rica without going to Manuel Antonio National Park, so we left the rainy mountain and headed for the beach. The single most interesting sight before we reached the coast was this bar we came across just sitting by the side of the road, nothing else in view.  It was time to stop for a beer anyway, so we decided to take a chance and go in.  We walked through the doorway and were astonished.  The entire floor was covered in a mosaic that was obviously done by hand.  It appeared that the entire place was the work of an incredibly talented craftsman.  Even better, the bartender had a video of Alan Jackson playing, so we felt like we were in Texas instead of the jungle.  There was a beautiful deck built in the rear, and it was only feet away from a rushing rapid of a river, running full because of all the rain from the hurricane.  You learn that surprises wait for you to be adventurous. 

After our thoroughly relaxing couple of hours at the bar we drove on.  Our next surprise was when we reached the Tarcoles River.  For some reason, this is a hangout for crocodiles.  There are usually 10 to 20 gargantuan crocs visible from the bridge.  Look at these rascals!

We took Frommer’s advice and stayed at Hotel Verde Mar at Quepos.  This turned out to be an excellent choice.  Their brochure says this delightful hotel is “nestled in the jungle only a few hundred yards from the jewel of the national park system. World famous Manuel Antonio National Park.”  It’s just a short walk to the beach via a raised wooden walkway.  We found a great little restaurant just up the beach from the hotel.  An altogether pleasant place to stay. 

The Park itself was amazing.  My first realization was that rain forest meant you camera lens was going to get wet!  I just never took the name literally, silly me!  The sounds of monkeys was everywhere and we became so used to them that we didn’t feel it was even necessary to look up anymore as they romped through the trees.  And, finally, we saw the three-toed sloth.  It was very high up in the tree, and my camera didn’t get a very good shot, so it looks more like someone just threw an old fur coat up in the branches.

The week we spent in Costa Rica was too short.  There was so much more to see.  We have since learned that the airfare is the most expensive cost in travel, so if you’re going to pay that, you might as well spend the few extra dollars it will cost to stay two or three weeks, or a month. 

What I learned: Travel More! Stay Longer!

Horrible Roads

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Published November 2, 2005

The Monteverde Cloud Forest was next on our list, so, we packed up the SUV and headed for Santa Elena.  Here is what Frommer’s says about driving to Monteverde.  “Whichever route you take, the final going is slow because the roads into Santa Elena are rough, unpaved dirt and gravel affairs.” Make no mistake, driving these roads is daunting, and there were times when it seemed impossible that we would make it to our destination.  

The Monteverde Biological Cloud Forest Reserve is one of the most developed and maintained attractions in Costa Rica, so you would think there would be a decent way to get there.  The back seat of the Kia SUV was not especially comfortable and the potholes in the road meant we were bouncing up and down, swaying side to side, and hanging on to the straps to keep from hitting our heads on the roof.
Thanks to my husband’s driving skills, we made it to our lodgings in Santa Elena.  Exhausted, we had dinner in the restaurant and crashed.  

Our zip-line tour was scheduled for the next morning, but the weather report was unsettling.  It was the tail end of hurricane season, and the news channel reported that a hurricane was blowing across Nicaragua, the country to the north of us.  During the night, the rain swept in.  When we went to breakfast early the next morning, there was a group of German tourists talking with their guide who was telling them that he advised postponing their zip-line tour.  We immediately found the hotel manager and asked her to contact the tour guide who was supposed to meet us there and ask him to please cancel our tour and issue us a refund.  We would not be able to reschedule because we were due in Quepas the next evening.

Another lesson learned: the tour guide couldn’t issue a refund because we had paid the travel agent.  When we called the travel agent, he said he couldn’t issue a refund because we had cancelled, not the tour guide.  Arguing was futile.  Now I am aware of TripAdvisor and I would, at the very least, have threatened to write a scathing review of the travel agency.

Even in the rain we were able to ride the gondola up into the Forest and learn a great deal about the 2500 species of plants, including 400 types of orchids, 400 species of birds, and 100 different species of mammals.  Our tour guide was an extremely pleasant and informed young man, who confessed that he had never been outside of Costa Rica.

Things I Learned: Do not assume that the standards for highways and roads are the same in other countries as the ones in the U.S.  We have never encountered roads and bridges as horrible as those in Costa Rica.  On one occasion, we saw something in the middle of the road ahead, but we could not identify it.  It didn’t move, so it wasn’t an animal.  But it was bigger than a cardboard box.  As we approached, we all peered through the windshield to try to figure it out.  Finally, aha, it was a 50-gallon drum stuck in a huge pothole so that cars did not fall in it!

Rookie Mistakes

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Published October 30, 2005

This was our first trip together, and our first experience in Central America, so we made all the rookie mistakes.  They ended up costing us, but we learned what not to do. 

The first mistake was ever setting foot inside the travel agent located a few steps from the hotel.  Since our friend from Virginia spoke fluent Spanish, he talked with the agent who assured us he could make all the arrangements for a perfect vacation in his country.  First we needed to rent a car.  That part seemed simple enough, except that I gave the agent my debit card just to secure the car, and then we would pay the final cost with our credit card because our friends would be splitting the cost with us and we could settle up when we returned to San Jose. 

The agent made reservations for us at Arenal and at The Monteverde Cloud Forest.  He also talked us into signing up for a zip line adventure at Monteverde at a cost of $60 per person.  We would never do that now – sign up with an agent miles away from the actual event.  But after what seemed like hours and hours, we were finally done and ready to explore Costa Rica.  Then, suddenly, I was told that there would be a $1000 hold on our bank account until we returned the car.  That would mean we wouldn’t have access to most of the money we planned to use on the trip!  So, another half hour was spent crediting back the debit card and using a credit card for the security.  Too confusing! 

Driving through the countryside was a delight.  We stopped to feed coatamundi bananas by hand, took photos with coffee plantations in the background, gasped occasionally at the narrow, pot-holed roads, and stopped for lunch where “cow meat sandwich” was on the menu.  This “cow meat” sandwich, aka hamburger, was 800 colones, or $1.60.  French fries were 450 colones, or less than $1.00.  I found the best, most economical meal was the standard local fare, called “Tico” food; generally rice, beans, fruit, maybe a bit of chicken.  Always good, and always less than $3.00.

We arrived at our destination, Los Lagos, in La Fortuna.  We had comfortable cabins next to each other right at the foot of the volcano.  We were astonished at the size of the pool that was heated by the volcano.  Best pool I have ever been in.  We didn’t want to get out.  But food and drink were calling.  I was in my nightie, ready to fall asleep after the hot soak in the pool and all of a sudden we heard a boom!  Thunder?  Guns?  What?  Oh, for heavens sake, it was Arenal, the volcano, showing off for us.  I have to say, it was scary.  I don’t think I could get used to it.  But I was so tired, I fell asleep anyway.

What I learned: Don’t go to a travel agent in a country you don’t know.  If you have an agent at home that you have used and trust, then that’s fine, but don’t put yourself at the mercy of a fast-talking hustler.  Take one credit card that you don’t intend to use in case you have to give them a card to rent the car.  Now, after years of travel, we know that we can find great accommodations and negotiate a good price, often lower than a travel agent could get.

Arriving in San Jose

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Published 10/29/2005

When we had arrived in San Jose, Costa Rica, made it through immigration, and had our luggage, the first thing that happened was that my husband took off like a shot out the door to light up.  Left me just outside the doors with the luggage and about two dozen taxi drivers swarming over me rattling Spanish at me.  I just kept screaming, “No, no, no!” “Mi spousa!” Of course, I don’t know if that’s even Spanish, maybe it’s Italian or totally made up. I thought I was going to be kidnapped and never see home again!

Then my husband returned, we got a taxi, and headed off to the Gran Hotel Costa Rica where we would meet our friends.  I think about that now and how much simpler life is with cell phones!  Our taxi driver was very nice and spoke passably good English, so he was able to point out various sights and buildings on the way, and he delivered us safe and sound to the hotel.

Immediately we made our way to the outdoor patio to have a drink and something to eat.  Our friends spied someone they had met the day before.  He was stranded at the hotel because he had made the mistake of going to the market in the center of town and had his pocket picked.  Lost his wallet, and his passport.  Unfortunately it was Saturday night, the next day the Embassy was closed, so he couldn’t do anything until Monday.  By that time, we were gone.

Things I learned:  Don’t get separated from your group, or your spouse.  Pay attention to the warnings about protecting your valuables in crowds.  Make sure you have copies of your passport, your credit cards, and the phone numbers to call if your cards are stolen. And now, I make sure we have at least two different cards and two different bank accounts with debit cards.  If one set is stolen, we aren’t stranded and unable to get money.  Another good idea if you are going to be traveling for a month or longer, is to have a trusted family member added to your bank account so that they can straighten out any problem that arises.

Searching for a Sloth

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Published 10/29/2005

You can be bitten by the travel bug in ways you never expected.  In my case, it was a conversation I had with my friend in Virginia.  She told me that her grand-daughter had spent three weeks in Costa Rica doing some environmental work with her university.  Dani told her grandmother about the beauty of Costa Rica, how marvelous the people are, how natural and healthy and inexpensive the food is, not to mention the coffee, and how little money it takes to visit there.  My friend sort of casually said, “We should go.”

That’s all it took.  Before you could snap your fingers, we had set a date, and were looking for flights.  Because both our husbands had birthdays in October, we decided we could more easily convince them to go if we said it was a birthday trip.  I don’t remember now what sites I checked, but I am sure we bought the cheapest tickets we could find.  Although the best travel site on the web, Kayak, started doing business in 2004, I doubt that I knew about them when we were planning our Costa Rica trip. 

I can’t recall the details of planning the trip, but I do remember that both pairs of travelers bought travel books and began reading about where we wanted to go and what were our “must see” destinations.  I have read many different guide books, mainly from the library, but my favorite is Frommer’s.  From our separate research we agreed that we wanted to visit the Monteverde Cloud Forest, the Arenal National Park, and Manuel Antonio national Park.  The Virginians wanted to see as many species of birds and reptiles as possible and, top of the list was seeing a three-toed sloth in the wild.  I was both excited and afraid to sleep in the shadow of an active volcano.

So, on October 29, 2005 we set off on our first trip to Central America.